The Marion Jacket perfectly demonstrates my continued commitment to 80’s inspired
style as part of My Sew Called Wardrobe collection. Don’t expect it to end here.
The very first sample I made to test the pattern cut was in a nude cracked faux leather (which I think did for my walking foot RIP). I had originally viewed this pattern as being a
leather/faux leather piece, mostly to really accentuate the drape in the batwing sleeve.
It was probably a bad idea to flat fell seam this fabric, but I tried anyway and it worked reasonable well (RIP walking foot, you were loved).
Anyway, I ran it up and as soon as I did, I had the idea for a button up denim with a band collar. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
For my denim version I took the sizing back down to a 10 (I'd cut the leather pattern a little larger, close to a size 14 on the final pattern) and reduced the batwing size as I wasn’t sure how the more stable fabric would look with a really baggy batwing.
I had a small amount of mustard denim leftover from an old make and thought it would look cool for this jacket. I looked for buttons before I started and opted for some really lush blue ones I found in John Lewis, so I top stitched the whole thing with a blue thread to make it pop and it did. And so I had a denim jacket, which you will probably recognise is pretty much the final version.
I’ve raised the band collar neckline since this second draft so it is much closer nipped to the neck but if you like how this looks and don’t like to be choked it is no big deal to drop that neckline back down once you trace your pattern – though you may consider
lengthening the collar a little bit if you do.
I must have made about 5 Marions in a denim dying fever, actually probably more. I
was addicted to dying denim and then making Marions. I have had to give some
away. I even cut a men's version of the pattern and made one for my boyfriend because he quite liked the look; but don't expect that to come out any time soon, unless everybody in the world wants it.
Before I decided on the final cut I asked 2 sewing friends if they would sew one up
for me before I did the final grade, to get their feedback on fit.
Both had the exact same feedback – they didn’t like the way the back shoulder was so
boxy, and they weren’t fans of how tight it sit on the high hip. I liked both of these
features of course! So compromising, I reduced the batwing that was causing the shoulder to bag out at the back, but kept the fitted hem band, as that can easily be let out either at your side seams or pleats – the pattern piece for the waistband has a generous allowance on it so you can modify the waist at your leisure.
I'm sure you are wondering why the biker zip version didn't make the final cut? It did, kind of. The piece is there, but I thought it was better to just concentrate on the button version and the zip would be a nice bonus for anyone that wanted it. Watch this space.